Growing up, my friend Mark (not his real name) shared a story from his teenage years about applying for a summer job at Switzer’s Delicatessen on Spadina Avenue. Following advice from his friends—or perhaps his mother—he donned the only suit he owned—a slightly ill-fitting one, took the TTC (Toronto’s public transportation system) to the deli, and introduced himself to the owner with the firmest handshake he could muster.

The owner gave him a quick once-over and said, “If you’re going to work here, you can’t be dressed in a suit—and you’d better be ready to get your clothes dirty.”

Similarly, when I was working in a correctional facility, both staff and inmates were encouraged to wear street clothing. This flexibility in dress code sometimes led detainees to ask me what crime I was in for—a question I might not have encountered if I’d been dressed more formally.

These experiences highlight how clothing influences our interactions and perceptions in professional settings. Whether it’s for a job interview, working in a criminal justice agency, or teaching in a classroom, attire is more than just fabric—it communicates authority, identity, and intention.

The Role of Clothing in Professional Contexts

My early lessons about the effect of clothing on different audiences resurfaced recently when I was browsing at a local bookstore in Washington, DC (yes, a few of them still exist). I stumbled upon a book titled What Artists Wear? and couldn’t help but wonder: Is there anything special about the clothes that criminologists wear?

The clothing worn by criminologists isn’t particularly unique compared to other social scientists, but it does play an important role in shaping perceptions.

Although I’m neither an expert on fashion nor style, my experience in street ethnography has sensitized me to how clothing can influence perception and interaction.

For example, when I started my first professor job, determined to project a  professional image, I wore a suit and tie for the entire first week. But it didn’t take long to realize I was overdressed for the role. Over time, I transitioned to a more personal “uniform”: a black T-shirt, black jeans, and black cowboy or biker boots—a subtle nod to Johnny Cash. I also grew my hair into a shoulder-length ponytail and, for a while, sported a collection of earrings and an ear cuff.

This evolution wasn’t just about comfort; it reflected a quiet rebellion against rigid academic expectations and a growing confidence in my identity. Had I kept that look today, I might easily be mistaken for an aging hippie. But in academia, such casual dressing walks a fine line: it might suggest brilliance and boldness—or simply that it’s laundry day.

Understandably the factors shaping clothing choices and their interpretations are not uniform. What we wear, when and where we wear it, how we choose to wear it, and how others perceive us are deeply influenced by gender norms, age, financial resources, cultural and regional practices, disciplinary orientation, and the specific setting all play a role in what we wear and how others perceive us.

Gendered Effects

Society expects men and women to dress in specific ways. In most Western societies, men often have more latitude in their clothing choices, while women face greater scrutiny. This heightened scrutiny likely contributes to increased pressure on women to dress more professionally.

Generational Components

Generational factors also influence clothing choices. Older professionals are generally not expected to dress like people in their 20s, and defying these norms can draw attention. For academics, balancing professionalism with individuality often involves navigating these generational expectations.

Money Talks

Financial considerations are another important factor. While tenured professors may afford a decent set of duds, adjunct instructors often lack the resources to dress professionally—let alone keep up with dry-cleaning bills. This disparity underscores broader inequities within academia.

Regional and Cultural Differences

There are also regional and cultural differences in how academics (criminologists or otherwise) dress. For example, when I attended the University of Toronto, no self-respecting male professor would come to class without a suit and tie (or equivalent professional outfit for women). However, when I moved to the United States to start graduate school (at the University of Colorado), I was surprised by professors wearing more casual clothing, such as shorts and Birkenstocks.

Dressing for the Occasion

Context is crucial when choosing what to wear. Criminologists, like other professionals, should consider their audience and the setting. There are about three primary contexts where criminologists’ attire tends to vary: the classroom, conferences, and fieldwork.

Teaching Mode

If I’m teaching and want to present myself professionally to students, colleagues, and staff, I dress business casual—neat and put-together without overdoing it. This doesn’t mean I wear a suit and tie, but a polo or button-down shirt and neatly pressed jeans, khakis, or chinos will suffice. On the rare occasions, I wear a suit to class—usually because I have an important meeting before or after—it raises eyebrows among students, colleagues, and staff, which engenders comments like “what’s ‘s up?” “Did you get a raise?” or “You’re looking more professional today.”

Conference participation

At academic conferences, and depending on your role (i.e., presenter, audience member, etc.), the appropriate attire can vary. For example, as a presenter, I tend to dress more professionally (usually business formal to business casual). It’s also common to wear more formal clothing on the day of your presentation and then dress more casually on the other days or in the evenings. Finding the right balance can be tricky, but it gets easier with experience, especially when many attendees appear uncomfortable in their clothes.

I will say however, that many European male criminologists dress with more style than their American counterparts, often adopting a “smart casual” or “business casual with a European twist” look. This style, also called “Continental Smart Casual,” typically features a dark blazer or suit jacket, a white dress shirt, and jeans—understated sophistication that is polished yet less rigid than a full suit. (Think of brands like Club Monaco, COS, Massimo Dutti, etc.). (Some of my male colleagues can even rock a 5 o’clock shadow 24 hours a day, a skill I have yet to perfect- but I am working on it). Similarly, many female criminologists embrace this look, sometimes incorporating tailored skirts or dresses that complement this style’s professional yet relaxed ethos. (Consider brands like Club Monaco, Massimo Dutti, Rag & Bone, Sandro, Theory, etc.).

Fieldwork Attire

The most significant variation in attire occurs when criminologists conduct fieldwork. For instance, when visiting a prison, I typically wear a suit or business casual clothing to convey professionalism and respect for both the environment and the individuals I engage with. Female criminologists, too, may select clothing that conveys authority, expertise, and respect—often opting for professional dresses or blouses instead of suits, depending on their personal style.

Conversely, when conducting research that involves street ethnography, which for me may include observing and speaking with graffiti writers or street artists, I opt for causal, non-threatening street clothes (not street wear) which are comfortable and appropriate for the setting. (A sturdy pair of running shoes also comes in handy if I ever need to high tail it out of a dodgy situation). Female researchers in these contexts might choose casual attire like pants and sneakers, blending in with the community they are studying, while also considering safety in certain situations.

Other Issues to Consider

Disciplinary Orientation

Another source of variation in clothing style may also be related to disciplinary orientation. For example, a former criminal justice practitioner turned university professor or a person working in a so-called ‘cop shop’ may be more profesh in their attire (This includes clothing brands like Everlane, etc.). Meanwhile Critical Criminologists may be more casual/rebellious in the dress, opting for torn jeans etc.. Then again the criminologists who are more interested in policy might dress more conservatively (Their clothing brands of choice might include Brooks Brothers, or Hickey Freeman etc.).

Exploring Identity

Attire also serves as a medium for self-expression. For some criminologists, clothing is not just functional but a way to infuse individuality and creativity into their professional lives. Accessories like tattoos or body modifications may further reflect this blending of personal and professional identities.

Tailoring Attire to the Situation

From blending into research settings to commanding respect in the classroom or projecting credibility at conferences, attire plays a crucial role for criminologists. Beyond selecting research topics, analyzing data, and communicating ideas to students and colleagues, decisions about what to wear are an important part of academic and professional life.

Photo Credit:

Photographer: Fourbyfourblazer

Title: Ross Dress for Less